Wednesday, April 22, 2009

☞ EAT: Covo Trattoria

Viaduct Valley's Italian restaurant has many grand gestures but could work on some of the finer details. The good news is that the place is cavernous and built into an old industrial warehouse with old-world, painted signage out front and a brick pizza oven in the back. Alfresco dining, another novelty for this part of Harlem, awaits during the warmer weather along with a breathtaking view of the viaduct on the more picturesque Northern end. Pizza is a must here, and there is also an upstairs lounge popular for the after-dinner crowd. Some minor changes that could be made is that a bit of the decor seems like clutter, especially up-front, and the menu seems too far reaching. Nevertheless, a great new addition to the food scene -- and worth the walk over on a warm day for brunch or a large gathering at night for dinner. Covo is located at 701 W. 135 Street and 12th Avenue. Tel.(212) 234-9573. Take the 1 train to 137th Street or 125th Street, depending on the direction you are coming from.

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