Eddie Huang's review of Marcus Samuelsson's memoir
Yes, Chef has made quite a buzz on the internet since his critique slams the local celebrity chef, the Red Rooster restaurant and his support of Harlem. Mr. Huang criticizes chef Samuelsson on many points which include basically not being a real Harlemite since he was not born uptown, pandering to stereotypes by making a Harlem Renaissance theme park out of the Red Rooster and not understanding that folks uptown want the option of takeout food for both low or high end establishments.
Mr. Huang notably states that he is not from the neighborhood in the review but rather from downtown New York via elsewhere in the United States. This is not a factor since the critic has an apparently non-stereotypical, true Harlemite friend (who happens to be a rapper) provide insight on the Red Rooster while dining at the said establishment. A lot of eyebrows were raised this week when The Observer piece was published so check out the full article here:
LINK
It could not be more rich coming from Eddie Huang. If ever there was someone seeking out controversy for the sake of his own fame, it's him. And the gall of someone who doesn't live in Harlem trying to speak for those of us who do live in Harlem, is outrageous.
ReplyDeleteI agree!
DeleteAgreed as well! Huang needs to shut it...what a negative opportunist...
ReplyDeleteShorter Eddie: "Please notice me!!!"
ReplyDeleteIf Samuelsson's is missing the point with Red Rooster, then so are the throngs packing the place nearly every single day. He wishes Ba
I never argue with objective sucess even if it goes against my anti-boogie sensibilities.
It should have been clear to Huang that what he considers to be "true Harlem cuisine" wasn't exactly packing them in, either.
Sounds like the issue is with who is a true Harlemite and who isn't. How that relates to Red Rooster isn't clear to me, but they are distinctly different discussions. How about a critique on the food, or service, or even Samuelsson's prose in his new book? That, most would agree, would be far more entertaining and valuable than the broader expose on hometown or neighborhood identity.
ReplyDeleteThe article was pathetic on some many levels. And the Observer's editors seems to be just as clueless as Eddie Huang himself.
ReplyDeleteThis article is pathetic on so many levels. And clearly The NY Observer's editors are just as clueless as Eddie Huang.
ReplyDeleteI must say i am best pleased to see our community defending a business that is thriving and providing jobs and attention to our great part of town.
ReplyDeleteI can't comment as to what does/doesn't constitute a true Harlemite. That said, from a pure food standpoint, I had my first meal at Red Rooster last week and couldn't have been more disappointed. One positive, I had a fantastic cocktail (or three) called the "Yes, Chef" in anticipation of the book release, but the food was average at best. My wife's crab cakes were good, but the pork belly in the Jerk Bacon & Egg was so over-seasoned that it was almost inedible. The Coconut Rice & Curry Peas was ok, but nothing special, especially for $21. And I think you can walk into any number of restaurants in NYC and get better chicken.
ReplyDeleteAs a neighborhood resident I'm happy Red Rooster is thriving and I really, really wanted to like it. Maybe it was outstanding when it first opened, but I couldn't recommend Red Rooster to a friend as anything more than a place to grab a nice cocktail.
Chris, that is a review i could live with as it has been my experience as well it is 6/10 and very hit or miss. I have eaten there 3 times and one was horrid the other average and the last time was excellent. Marcus would do well to pay a bit more attention to what is coming out of the kitchen.
ReplyDeleteIsn't a true Harlemite ... someone who lives there? Or owns a business there? I live here, I have gone to the restaurant (I recommend the Earl of Harlem cocktail -- three of them and you will never be the same). I think the whole discussion of "real" Harlemites is totally bogus. If you want to go down that route, real Harlemites are the Italians, the Jews, the Eastern Europeans, the Dutch and then the Indians.....
ReplyDeleteAnyone who puts their money into a community, lives on FDB for several years and is a tireless booster of the entire neighborhood would seem to qualify as a Harlemite on many counts. The "true" vs "transplant" debate is both transparent and weak; this entire city is based on immigration and people moving from neighborhood to neighborhood.
ReplyDeleteMarcus Samuelsson should congratulate himself as being the subject of a bitter reporter, now Marcus Samuelsson has truly arrived. Unfortunately those who know little of Harlem may mistake this article as accurate.
ReplyDeleteNorah and HHH hit it directly on the head, this idea of "real" Harlemite is exactly why Harlem languished and in some areas continues to lag. It is also why these Harlem politicos have the kiss the ring mentality.
ReplyDeleteI say enough already.
Seems Eddie Huang’s sole source of what is “real” in Harlem is his friend the rapper, or is it aspiring rapper.
ReplyDeleteI was happy to find others defending Marcus here online. The fact remains that Red Rooster has boosted the neighborhood and brought new life to it (I have lived on 126th and 125th for the past 7 years). It is not for someone who doesn't live in the hood bringing their one Harlemite friend to dine with them to make such judgements. As a Harlemite myself I can say that Red Rooster is a very welcome addition and Marcus' heart is in the right place.
ReplyDeleteI've lived in Harlem for the past 7 yrs and I am happy about the changes that are occurring around me. Lenox Coffee on my block! Thanks to Red Rooster I now see Yellow Cabs riding around my hood! I liked Red Rooster when it first opened but now it's become so loud and such a scene I avoid it. There is one thing I do agree with...Amy Ruth's has better chicken!
ReplyDeleteNew York Times review of YES, CHEF in today's paper: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/27/books/yes-chef-by-marcus-samuelsson.html
ReplyDeleteThat guy's a schmuck. But it's too bad some of you have had less than stellar food at Red Rooster. I live a few blocks away and have been at least a dozen times. And have taken at least 20 guests and we've always loved the food. Certain items aren't as amazing as I'd like but I've chalked that up to personal preference. The Yard Bird, Mac & Greens, Pork Loin, Burger, Jerk Bacon, Roasted Chicken, Pork Butt for 2, Cornbread, Collard Greens... have been great every time. I have nothing to do with the place personally. But I love having a fun, funky place with sophisticated food and a good vibe to take people to. Amy Ruth's chicken may be better in some ways but it's apples to oranges. Totally different dish.
ReplyDeleteI agree with Huang on two points - the quality of the food and Samuelsson's cliched prose. I haven't eaten at Red Rooster since last summer, so I can't comment on the food now. But each time I went I was was completely unimpressed with the food. People i know in the restaurant industry view Red Rooster as a bit of a joke - mediocre food, celebrity chef vanity project. However, I am happy that it has sparked a new growth of restaurants along Lenox Ave.
ReplyDelete@chris. A real Harlemite? Stand in line at your Bodega. Order rice with gravy no meat. Ask for a little extra gravy. That's your meal. Make sure it's two bucks. Take it home. Eat half of it. Shared with the dog or cat. Put the other half on the window sill for later.
ReplyDeleteThat's the real Harlem.
Sanou I am sure that at one time that was Harlem but Harlem was also rich people lounging on their estates. So as Chris and others have said why should any one group have a total claim on Harlem?
ReplyDeleteHBBC. You are totally correct and I shortsighted and cranky. Honestly. But today I was the woman on line at the bodega making sure it had some extra gravy and they made sure not to charge me more than 2.00. And today there were actually 30 guys and one or two women waiting for our block captain to deliver drugs to sell.
DeleteI don't mean to sound snarky. I truly don't. But my Harlem seems more real than those who complain about a 23 dollar chicken.
I know that the Harlem you have outlined still exist, but it is also what others experience as well. As an example my Harlem this morning was two kids of Asian/Black decent coming up to me to pet my dogs. It 10 people 3 of which i did not know saying hello.
ReplyDeleteIt was also chicken bones and garbage in the street and some young men who should have been stopped and frisked :) throwing their trash in the street with a half full trash can 5 feet from them.
I never ever take your comments as snarky by the way :)
That was the worst article I’ve ever read…pure trash. I’m so sick of the “True Harlemite” nametag because the term should not even exist. I’ve been in Harlem since 1996, and in that time frame I’ve sat on the Community Board, chaired Economic Development and listened to business and developers that said it was no reason to come to Harlem. I also sat on the Empowerment Zone as a board member as we worked with the business community to push “not what was… but what could be” in Harlem. I was also the Community Action Chair for the Friends of Morningside Park and worked hard to bring a farmers market to 110th and Morningside when Green Market said there was not enough money Harlem…go figure, now they are everywhere. All of that was my night and weekend volunteer job while trying to run a trading desk on Wall Street. There are a ton of other people who can tell the same story…about us putting in tons of hours being yelled at by a few in the community that were afraid of “ any change”…but we stuck it out.
ReplyDeleteWhen I got Harlem, almost every restaurant was take-out with Lyondell’s and Sylvia’s being the exceptions. So to his point…we got tons of takeout. The problem with the reporter and few others is that they always need to divide. “Harlem” like every other neighborhood on this 13mile island is all part of Manhattan and now everyone is recognizing that. There was a time when you had to leave the community to get some of the basic essentials. Look at Harlem now…the community has nightlife now, tons of new choices of places to eat and to drink. It has a growing tax base; supper markets, drying cleaning…ect. Harlem is getting everything that will make it a self-sustaining community…and that was our goal.
There is nothing worst then a reporter who writes a story on a subject that he takes no time to research.
Thanks for your efforts in improving Harlem.
DeleteUnknown, I too salute your long years and time in service.
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