Sunday, February 13, 2011

☞ BESPOKE: Street Influences Revisited



Fashion Week has arrived in New York and this Harlem based menswear designer with over a decade of industry experience has a few observations about some of the elements of the season. -Ulysses

Looking at a couple of trends that are currently happening in fashion these days, it appears that street style has once more come back into the spotlight.  First up is the current Burberry Spring 2011 advertisement campaign which not only has the 1980's vibe that has taken over in the past 5 years but it is also the first time that the British label showcases all black models in a spread.  Motorcycle jackets and layers of black clothing were "de rigueur" for the industry in the late 80's and early 90's when some of the fussier elements of the era were scaling down into more practical styles.  What was also interesting at that time period was a moment in the 1991 collecitons that Chanel decided to give a nod to hip hop and showcased layered chain jewelry looks, backward baseball caps and raw-edge denim on the runway (last row of images). This collection would probably mark the last time in a breadth of years that the higher end collections would look towards the streets to style their lines.

For the most part, womenswear in recent years has borrowed from the modernist 80's aesthetic but menswear has sort of gone the other direction. Today's fashion-forward men are working a more traditional angle of historic dressing but with a bit of an ironic edge.  At the center row of photos, one can see Junya Watanabe's Paris presentation from last month which shows the major influence of men's street style today (with the requisite handlebar mustache) making it to the runway.  The mountain-hunter-hipster-heritage-look with its dressier, tweedy sartorial suited companion is what the downtown New York fashion crowd has been sporting as of late and once again, the designer collections are starting take notice of the action on the streets.  All the mens shows at New York Fashion Week are being presented at the moment and expect to see more of these looks on the runway: LINK.  Menswear photos courtesy of the Style.com.  Click on all images to enlarge.

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